Tuesday, October 9, 2018

Exploring Beijing during Golden Week

Beijing, China's capital is the perfect city to see where old China and new China meet. Our first stop was to the Dongyue Taoist Temple.
Old and new mixed

We have never been to a taoist temple before...what a trip! We highly recommend going to check out this temple as it was really interesting, colorful and full of awesome weirdness (is that a thing?) The temple displays 76 different departments of death.




Each chamber is completely different with colorful statue looking things and totally worth the time and entrance fee (less than $2 USD)


Sunday we opted for the weekend only Panjiayan antique market and hoped to find some real treasures. The antique market is on a blacktop parking lot with all sorts of stuff displayed. Regardless of what we asked to see it was $100 USD. Small perfume bottle? $100 USD  Necklace? $100 USD...didn't matter...their starting price was the equivalent of $100 USD.



Being that this was an "antique" market, the one English word every seller knew was "OLD". As we would laugh at their insane price, they would insist that the article in question was old. Ya sure...right. I saw a necklace that was really cool and although I already knew the price (everything starts at $100 USD) I asked the lady anyways...How much? She thought about it for a second and punched in to her calculator 700 yuen (about $100 USD). We all laughed and walked away. Every seller next to her was screaming at her....telling her she asked too much. They were reprimanding her as we were walking away. Although we don't speak Chinese...we got the drift that they had told her she should have learned from others mistakes...DON'T START AT 700 yuen!!


Before leaving the market, I saw one last items I was interested in. A small fish necklace charm. Again the guy started at 700 yuan, claimed the piece was real old and we laughed. But I really wanted to charm. We were walking away for good when he stuffed the calculator in Phil's hand and asked us to make an offer. I told Phil I only wanted to pay 100 yuan ($15 bucks). Phil thought that was too insulting. Jessica grabbed the calculator from Phil, punched in 100, and showed the seller. He agreed to accept 100 yuan. The surrounding sellers were cheering. I got so excited I had to take a picture. Someone had finally sold something to the white people! Success..or maybe not.


As we walked away from the "antique" market where Phil kept muttering, "I swear they just throw this crap in the dirt to make it look old" we came walked into the Panjiayun daily market. HOLY COW....rows and rows of crap (er, I mean good stuff). And well, what do you know? The same crap (uh, I mean, "antiques") that people were selling around the corner on the blacktop for 20 times more! And what else do you know....my fish necklace charm that I had just happily paid 100 yuan was being sold by someone who's first offer was to sell his for 30 !!  Whatever. The man has a family to feed and I'm happy with my $15 USD fish charm....even if I could have purchased the same one around the corner for $3.


Monday we went to the Great Wall and it was spectacular. We literally couldn't have asked for a more perfect day. 75 degrees? Check. Crystal clear skies? Yup. Only a fraction of the people we were anticipating? Thank Gawd yes.


How's this for steep?
We went to the Mutianyu area of the Great Wall, 2 hours from Beijing. Most people go to the closest area, Mutianyu is NOT the closest area which means it's also less crowded, by a few million people. We chose to take the gondola up to the top of tower 16 and then walk to tower 19 and all but crawl to tower 20. 


The top of tower 20 was nothing short of breathtaking. As if experiencing the Great Wall with our family wasn't gratifying enough, being there with Emma was exceptional. We've never seen her so happy. To be standing on the Great Wall in her home country. Beyond awesome. 




We spent about 4 hours on the Great Wall, which went by fast. With every step we would look at the new incredible view. Although we had purchased gondola tickets for the ride down, Emma insisted we walk...all. the. way. down.


Sweet Jesus, the day after first crawling up to Tower 20 and then walking all the way down off the mountain, Phil and I were feeling old. Real old. Like we could hardly walk the next day old. Shit we do for our girls.....


I'd love to show you pictures of the Forbidden City, but we don't have any. We suck and didn't buy tickets in advance. Although all of our co-workers told us we were insane for going to Beijing during the Golden Week, due to the enormous crowds, for some reason that didn't translate into pre-purchasing tickets to one of the most popular attractions in all of China. We are considering going back to Beijing for Christmas.


Before heading home, we went to the Lama Temple. We love the different temples. They're so colorful. Peaceful. Less crowded.



3 story Buddha in the temple. Stunning
Smoke from prayer sticks filled every temple


It is possible to enjoy China during the Golden Week, so long as you arrive at your destination on Saturday and get the hell outta dodge by Tuesday. China makes people work on the first weekend of the holiday (in order to take off the full week) so while everyone else is at work, places are less crowded. By Tuesday the crowds of millions show up...and the fun is over. 

While Phil was buying our subway tickets back to our Airbnb, the girls and I were standing behind the row of ticket dispensers next to a wall as it was the only place to be without feeling like we were going to be crushed. I felt a hand in the middle of my back and was shoved out of the way. A new walkway was forming behind us with the influx of another million people into the subway. These people were squeezing themselves between a wall and a row of ticket dispensing machines!! I've never seen crowds like we did in Beijing. Living in China brings a whole new meaning to the word, CROWDED










Sunday, September 23, 2018

Beautiful Suzhou


Six months ago, with job offers from various cities throughout China, we had to choose a city that would serve as our "home".  While floating in the middle of the South Pacific aboard our home Terrapin, we did the best we could at researching where we should settle. One quick internet search of Suzhou revealed pictures of a gorgeous city with several World Heritage Sites and only 10 million inhabitants (that's rural for China!) and we knew we had a winner! 




We finally resisted the gravitational pull of our huge couch (for 4 years while living on our boat, a spacious couch is the one thing we really missed) and set out to see the sights in person. Our first tourist stop was Tiger Hill which boasts "The leaning tower of China". 



Fun Fact: The famous pagoda at Tiger Hill is both older and taller than the Leaning tower of Pisa. Tiger Hill was amazing and far exceeded our expectations. 






While most people probably take a water taxi the 2 miles from Tiger Hill to famous Shantang St. we chose to walk the road less traveled.  





We absolutely loved seeing for ourselves places that we had seen only on the internet that led to our decision to move to Suzhou. Another Suzhou fun fact: Suzhou is comparably an affluent, educated, middle class city with a big tech sector and services industry. The city produces more lap top computers than any other place in the world, and the people have the third highest per capita income of large Chinese cities.



Suzhou is located on the Yangtze River and the Grand Canal (just one of many canals) runs north and south through it, helping Suzhou to live up to it's nickname. "Venice of the East."





It felt great to be back out exploring. Next weekend we take the train to Bejing and can't wait to see the Great Wall!










Tuesday, August 7, 2018

Retracing our steps in Guangzhou

We really wanted to visit Guangzhou to show Emma where we had been together 12 years ago. Americans adopting from China exit through Guangzhou (specifically the White Swan Hotel) because the American Consulate, where the adoptions are finalized, is located here.  

Located in the White Swan Hotel is the famous Red Couch. The Red Couch was where thousands of  American families would set up their babies and take photos the day before departing for the States. 

CCAI adoption group 912

For months we have been anticipating geeking out on recreating pictures from over a decade ago. 






I'm particularly proud of the next photo. Without a map (even with a VPN we can't seem to figure out how to download Google Maps offline), no way of asking for directions and relying on memory from 12 years ago, we found the exact spot the original photo was taken. We zoomed in on the original photo and studied the buildings behind Phil, examined the air conditioning units in background and miraculously found our spot. 


The same year we adopted Emma (2006) China began to limit the number of international adoptions (by drastically slowing down the process) and eventually lifted the one child policy in 2015. When we were previously at the White Swan Hotel there were dozens of adopting families. Today, the famous red couch is in a corner with a sign explaining it's significance and the patrons are mostly Chinese from various parts of China. 

Our adoption group from 2006, Emma on the far right screaming into the couch.


The White Swan hotel is surrounded by a nearby park with many interesting statues.  The statue in particular that we remember depicts an American couple (the mom is a bit plump) pushing a Chinese baby in a stroller. 


Lucy's Cafe is still within walking distance of the White Swan Hotel, serving American Style food. Just like the last time we were here with Emma, we ordered the cheeseburgers and club sandwiches, which still taste great!